PARIS – France’s proposed crackdown on ultra-fast fashion is facing mounting scrutiny amid concerns over behind-the-scenes lobbying by Chinese online giant Shein. Speaking to *Apparel Insider, French politician Anne-Cécile Violland, who introduced the bill in 2023, confirmed that Shein has ramped up lobbying efforts both in France and across the European Union in recent months.
“Since the vote and the commitment of all the partners who wanted a virtuous textile industry, these big companies realised the real impact [of the bill] and changed their actions,” she said.
“They have not ignored it, but are fighting it with all their might.”
Violland, a deputy in France’s National Assembly, said Shein has recruited “many former ministers, politicians and advisers” to support its position, and has run influencer campaigns designed to cast doubt on the bill’s intent.
“Their communication campaigns are biased, denying realities that are nonetheless public,” she told us.
Shein’s lobbying efforts come as France advances legislation designed to address the environmental and health impacts of ultra-fast fashion. While the law is not explicitly aimed at individual brands, Violland confirmed that the Senate version of the bill “targets only Shein and Temu in order to further restrict them”.
The proposed legislation, which passed unanimously in the National Assembly in March, began its Senate review on 2 June. Under fast-track procedures, it will have only one reading in each chamber. If texts differ, a joint committee will be convened to seek a compromise.
A final Senate vote is scheduled for 10 June. However, Violland dismissed claims that the bill had been diluted under pressure from lobbying, insisting the text reflects broad consultation across industry, associations and stakeholders.
“The new text has not been influenced by Shein’s lobbying,” she said.
She acknowledged, however, that the stakes are high. “These companies mass-produce on a daily basis… The social conditions of production raise questions. These products have a limited lifespan, are difficult to recycle, and create pollution in countries around the world.”
Violland also warned of an existential threat to small, responsible fashion businesses: “In the long term, it is our small, virtuous businesses that are committed to a global product life cycle that could disappear.”
Violland stressed that France’s labelling model has already secured EU approval for voluntary use and reflects extensive consultation. She described it as “the most flexible and appropriate way of encouraging respectful companies”, in contrast to more rigid proposals under EU rules.
France’s efforts to regulate fast fashion, including its own version of the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF), have positioned it as a leader in this area. Violland said the country is building on a track record that includes the “polluter pays” principle and extended producer responsibilit, both of which are now EU-wide.
Although confident in the process, Violland said the bill’s future now rests with the Senate. “I’m not convinced of anything,” she said. “It’s up to the senators to take up the debate.”
