ZURICH – Oeko-Tex has published new laboratory findings from its Eco Passport certification programme, highlighting persistent compliance issues in some dye categories. It also points to growing scrutiny of fluorinated substances.
The findings have been released to mark the tenth anniversary of Eco Passport. The scheme now covers more than 65,000 certified products, 2,125 certificates and 1,400 customers in more than 50 countries.
Oeko-Tex said the review is intended to show which testing parameters most often exceed threshold values and which product groups are most affected. It said the data can help manufacturers improve chemical safety and strengthen accountability across the textile, leather and chemical industries.
Its 2025 laboratory evaluation found that certain dye types continue to record a high volume of failed tests across multiple parameters. Disperse dyes, as well as vat and sulphur dyes, were among the product groups most affected.
Failures were recorded for parameters including quinoline, aniline and dimethyl fumarate.
Oeko-Tex said the findings were not unusual for the sector but showed why independent analytical testing remains important.
The review also points to the increasing complexity of PFAS monitoring. Oeko-Tex said Eco Passport findings for PFAS remain low, although laboratories are recording a higher presence of total fluorine.
To provide more clarity, Oeko-Tex has developed a new differentiation method to determine whether detected fluorine comes from PFAS or non-PFAS sources. The move comes as regulatory scrutiny of fluorinated compounds continues to rise.
Oeko-Tex said greener chemistry progress depends on looking at the full production process, including raw material purity, energy efficiency, wastewater management and end-of-life degradability.
“Chemical transparency is no longer a voluntary ambition. It is becoming a legal obligation,” said Oeko-Tex CEO Dr Alfred J. Beerli.
“Eco Passport supports this systemic view by requiring certificate holders to maintain quality management systems, provide personnel with appropriate training and ensure responsible waste disposal.”
China and India together account for around two-thirds of Eco Passport certificates globally, reflecting the standard’s relevance in countries where production volumes and chemical use are high.
Eco Passport has also been expanded in recent years. Developments include biodegradability assessment criteria and deeper integration with digital platforms such as ZDHC Gateway and The BHive.
“Over the next decade, credible, independently verified evidence of safe chemistry will be indispensable,” Beerli said. “The standard’s development cycle ensures it keeps pace with evolving compliance imperatives.”
