LONDON – International fashion brands are intensifying their use of synthetic fibres while employing tactics to delay regulatory actions that could threaten their fast fashion business model. This is according to a new Changing Markets report which highlights the industry’s weak support for substantial legislation and calls for for regulatory intervention.
Three years after a previous survey of brands (“Synthetics Anonymous: fashion brands’ addiction to fossil fuels”), the latest evaluation examines 50 major fashion brands, valued at over US$1 trillion combined, focusing on their use of synthetic fibres and strategies to combat microplastic pollution.
The Changing Markets Foundation and partners reached out to 50 global fashion brands with a questionnaire regarding their use of synthetic fibres, commitments to phasing them out, and strategies for addressing microfibre pollution. Brands were categorised based on their transparency and efforts: “leading the shift,” “could do better,” “trailing behind,” and the “red zone.”
The results reveal that despite the growing awareness of environmental and health risks, most fashion brands are increasing their use of synthetic fibres or hiding their dependence. More than half (54 per cent) of the companies failed to respond fully to the survey. Only two companies—Reformation and Hugo Boss—were recognised as leading the shift, though Hugo Boss’ 143 per cent increase in synthetic fibre use from 2020 to 2023 raises questions about its commitment. Nearly all other brands were classified as either “trailing behind” or in the “red zone,” characterised by minimal transparency and a growing reliance on synthetics.
Shein, Boohoo, and Lululemon were among the highest users of synthetic fibres, while Inditex disclosed the greatest volume of synthetics used—212,886 tonnes in 2023. Shein, likely a top user, did not disclose its total volume, though it has overtaken H&M and Inditex to capture a large share of the fast fashion market.
Since the first survey, half of the companies have increased their use of synthetics. Brands like C&A, Esprit, and Reformation, which pledged to reduce their reliance on synthetics in 2022, have instead expanded their use. Despite commitments from some brands to decrease synthetic use in the future, these promises are met with skepticism due to a pattern of broken commitments.
The report also highlights the fashion industry’s reliance on tactics borrowed from the tobacco and fossil fuel sectors to delay meaningful change. Many brands delay action by citing scientific uncertainty and relying on weak voluntary initiatives. Others distract from the core issue of microplastic pollution by shifting responsibility to consumers or promoting ineffective solutions, such as downcycling plastic bottles into clothes. Despite widespread membership in industry initiatives like The Microfibre Consortium (TMC), these efforts rarely lead to significant action to reduce microfibre pollution, it is claimed.
Brands continue to point to recycled polyester as a solution, though this approach fails to address microplastic pollution and disrupts the recycling loop for plastic bottles. Furthermore, most companies (82 per cent) pledge only to reduce virgin synthetics, not phase out plastics altogether, the report states.
The industry’s weak support for regulation is another concern. While governments worldwide are beginning to introduce regulations, including the 2022 EU Textiles Strategy, many fashion brands are not fully backing these efforts. The lacklustre response to proposed regulations suggests many companies prefer maintaining the status quo, employing delay tactics to resist meaningful change, the report argues.
