LONDON – Better Cotton, has joined the Make the Label Count (MTLC) initiative due to concerns over the European Union’s Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) methodology. In a statement, the world’s largest cotton standard said: “We are standing alongside over 50 natural fibre organisations and environmental groups in supporting calls for an urgent revision of the European Commission’s Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) methodology.
“This coalition takes issue with the way in which the PEF methodology calculates the impact of natural fibres compared to synthetic materials. At present, it would deem a 100 per cent polyester t-shirt to be 42 per cent more sustainable than a 100 per cent cotton t-shirt.
“This is because the methodology currently fails to account for significant environmental impacts unique to synthetic fibres, including microplastic emissions, post-consumer plastic waste, and the fact such materials are not renewable.”
Hélène Bohyn, policy & advocacy manager at Better Cotton, said: “Make the Label Count is an incredibly important movement. EU regulators are shaping the future of the fashion and textile sectors as we speak. The methodology they adopt will play the hugely important role of telling the story of sustainability progress across our industry and beyond, and will be critical to eradicating greenwashing.”
MTLC is committed to ensuring sustainability claims for textiles in the European Union (EU) are fair, credible, and comprehensive.
The initiative has gained significant momentum in recent weeks with the addition of other new members, including the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) and the International Cotton Association.
The group’s membership spans natural fibre producers, standards organisations, and environmental groups, all advocating for transparency and accuracy in sustainability labelling.
Notable members now include Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, the Changing Markets Foundation, the Plastic Soup Foundation, and prominent brands like John Smedley.
The MTLC has expressed concerns that the current PEF framework does not adequately address critical environmental factors, including microplastic pollution, the renewability and biodegradability of natural fibres, and the full environmental footprint of fossil fuel-based fibres.
