SYDNEY – Recent studies funded by Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) have highlighted the superior biodegradability of wool in marine environments compared to synthetic fibres. Published in a peer-reviewed journal, the findings offer significant scientific backing to the sustainability properties of wool.
The research demonstrated that both machine-washable and untreated wool fibres degrade effectively in marine environments. This is in contrast to synthetic fibres, which showed negligible degradation. Notably, the study also found no evidence that the Hercosett resin, used in the treatment of machine-washable wool, contributes to microplastic pollution.
Study Details and Findings
Conducted by AgResearch, the study used lightweight base-layer fabrics made from six different fibre types: machine-washable Merino wool, untreated Merino wool, viscose rayon, polyester, nylon, and polypropylene.
Results revealed that wool and cellulose-based viscose rayon biodegraded significantly, whereas synthetic fibres did not. Importantly, no microplastic fragments from Hercosett were detected, as its fragility means it relies on the wool for structural support.
Angus Ireland, AWI programme manager for fibre advocacy and eco credentials, emphasised the importance of the research in promoting wool’s environmental benefits, especially amid growing concerns about synthetic textile pollution.
The research forms part of AWI and IWTO’s broader efforts to more completely account for the end-of-life impacts of textiles in environmental rating schemes such as the European Union’s Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) for apparel and footwear.
There is growing consensus around the idea that natural fibres like wool, which biodegrade easily and do not accumulate in the environment, need to be accurately represented in PEF methodologies to ensure credibility.
In its current guise, the PEF methodology risks running counter to the European Union’s broader environmental objectives which highlight the importance of tackling microplastic pollution.
Interestingly, microplastic pollution has hit the headlines in recent months, with a growing body of research now focusing on the negative health impacts of microplastics. Previously, the focus of such research was around the amount of microplastics in the environment.
AWI’s findings are being used by the Make the Label Count campaign to push for the inclusion of microplastic emissions in the European Commission’s PEF framework.
Raising consumer awareness
In a related initiative, the French office of AWI subsidiary The Woolmark Company organised a press trip to Marseille on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea to educate fashion influencers about the impact of microplastic pollution from textiles. Collaborating with the No More Plastic foundation and sportswear brand MOVER, the trip featured free diving champion Alice Modolo, who highlighted the plastic waste prevalent in marine environments.
Alice Modolo and influencer Azza Slimene, who has 1.8 million followers, shared their experiences, emphasising the severity of microplastic pollution. Additionally, a collaboration with French news outlet Brut produced a video that gained nearly one million views, further raising awareness among GenZ audiences.
These initiatives highlight the urgent need to differentiate between natural and synthetic fibres in environmental assessments and consumer awareness campaigns. AWI continues to advocate for sustainable practices in the textile industry, highlighting wool’s eco-friendly properties and its role in reducing marine pollution.
The results were published in an open-access paper in the international journal Water, Air, & Soil Pollution, titled Marine Biodegradation Behavior of Wool and Other Textile Fibers.
