LONDON – For centuries, hemp was a widely used fibre in European textiles, valued for its durability, breathability, and sustainability. However, as cotton and synthetic fibres took over, hemp fell out of favour, with most of its processing moving to China. Despite its environmental benefits, hemp textiles remain a niche product, in part due to the lack of European processing infrastructure.
However, a more relaxed regulatory environment and a renewed interest in hemp fibres mean this picture is starting to change.
Natural Fibres Insight (NFI) recently caught up with Kombinat Konopny, a Poland-based hemp textile producer which is aiming to bring hemp processing back to Europe.
In this interview, Maciej Kowalski, CEO of Kombinat, discusses the challenges of reviving hemp textiles in Europe and his vision for a sustainable EU hemp industry.
NFI: Hemp is often marketed as an eco-friendly textile, yet much of the processing happens in China. How does this affect its sustainability claims?
Kowalski: Hemp is naturally one of the most sustainable fibres, but the way it is processed matters just as much as the raw material itself. Many brands source their hemp from China, where it undergoes heavy chemical processing that negates some of its environmental benefits.
European brands tout sustainability, yet the supply chain remains opaque. We believe in full transparency, which is why we process hemp mechanically, avoiding chemicals and ensuring European regulations are met.
NFI: Why set up hemp processing in Poland rather than outsource like many textile companies do?
Kowalski: Poland has a long history of hemp cultivation, and as a member of the European Union, we are able to adhere to strict environmental and labour regulations. If our goal is sustainability, then outsourcing production to the lowest bidder defeats the purpose.
We are working towards a fully European hemp textile supply chain, from growing the raw material to spinning the yarn and making the final fabric. We source our cotton from Greece, ensuring that every step of production stays within the EU. However, all of our hemp comes from our own fields in Poland, literally next door to our facility.
NFI: What are the biggest challenges in making hemp textiles mainstream in Europe?
Kowalski: The lack of standardisation in hemp processing is a major issue. In the cotton industry, buyers know exactly what they are getting because there are clear global standards. With hemp, the term “cottonised” can mean different things depending on the supplier. Brands don’t want that kind of uncertainty in their supply chain.
Another challenge is the textile industry itself. It is a very traditional sector, resistant to change. Major players tend to work with the same suppliers they have used for decades, making it difficult for a new hemp processor like us to break in.
NFI: How does hemp compare to cotton in terms of performance and comfort?
Kowalski: Hemp has excellent thermal regulation properties, making it breathable in summer and insulating in winter. It also has a higher abrasion resistance than cotton, which means garments last longer. Many consumers mistakenly believe hemp fabrics are stiff and rough, but when blended with cotton or processed mechanically, it offers a soft, comfortable texture.
Our main product is a 50/50 hemp-cotton blend, balancing the benefits of both fibres while maintaining comfort for everyday wear.
NFI: Can European hemp textiles compete with China’s low-cost production?
Kowalski: Competing on price is impossible. Instead, we focus on quality, traceability, and sustainability. Many global brands source from China, but their suppliers are often state-owned or have unclear environmental standards. With us, brands know exactly where their materials come from and can visit our fields and production facilities.
We are not interested in working with brands that prioritise lowest-cost production. Instead, we focus on those that value authenticity and want to tell a true sustainability story.
NFI: What’s next for Kombinat Konopny?
Kowalski: This month we are attending Première Vision in Paris, the first Polish company to ever exhibit at this prestigious textile fair. Our goal is to connect with European weaving mills and brands that are ready to embrace local, transparent hemp production.
Long-term, we want to be the go-to supplier for sustainable European hemp textiles, much like how consumers recognise ‘Intel Inside’ in computers. When brands use our fabric, they should be proud to say it was made in a traceable, responsible way.
NFI: What message do you want to send to fashion brands looking to work with hemp?
Kowalski: If you truly care about sustainability, let’s collaborate. Hemp textiles are no longer a niche experiment, hey are the future. But they must be produced ethically, transparently, and within Europe.
We welcome partnerships with brands that want to create real change in the textile industry. Together, we can build a responsible, European hemp supply chain that benefits both people and the planet.
‘Cottonisation’: the key to processing hemp for textiles
The most effective method for processing hemp into a spinnable fibre is cottonisation. Simply put, this process transforms the tough outer bark of the hemp plant into a soft, cotton-like structure, making it suitable for dry spinning systems. However, the term cottonisation is often misused in the textile and fashion industries, leading to confusion with processes like fibre boiling or mechanical opening. In reality, cottonisation is a comprehensive transformation that modifies hemp’s properties to enhance softness and spinnability.
There are multiple ways to cottonise hemp fibres, employing enzymatic, chemical, and mechanical treatments—either individually or in combination. The biggest challenge lies in striking the perfect balance: softening the fibre enough for spinning while preserving its natural strength and functionality.
Another crucial factor in the cottonisation process is sustainability. Evaluating the environmental impact of the process involves considering aspects like the type of chemicals or enzymes used, water consumption, and overall ecological footprint.
Cottonised hemp has vast potential in the fashion industry. Its versatility allows it to be used in a wide range of applications, from denim and knits to home furnishings, offering a sustainable alternative in textile production.
US denim brand Levi Strauss used the term ‘cottonised hemp’ in 2019 when it launched a collection of hemp denim. The collection included a pair of jeans and a trucker jacket made with a 70/30 cotton-to-cottonised hemp blend, with the hemp sourced from a rain-fed hemp crop which, the company claimed, reduced water use by around 30 per cent.
The company continues to use hemp in its collections but does not shout so loudly about it these days. On its website, for instance, we found a pair of 501 jeans (accessed February 2025) containing a blend of 74 per cent cotton and 26 per cent hemp.
