BRUSSELS – The International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) has launched a new evidence resource aimed at challenging environmental assessment methods which it claims overstate wool’s carbon footprint and favour synthetic fibres.
Unveiled at the IWTO’s 95th Congress in Dalang, China, the organisation’s new Green Book brings together research on wool’s environmental characteristics, carbon cycle and role within natural ecosystems.
The publication will provide wool producers, manufacturers, brands and retailers with verified information to support environmental claims and respond to what the IWTO argues are misleading narratives surrounding the fibre.
At the heart of the project is the organisation’s contention that conventional life cycle assessment tools do not adequately distinguish between renewable, biogenic production systems and linear industrial processes based on fossil fuels.
The IWTO said this has contributed to wool being routinely ranked as more environmentally damaging than synthetic fibres, despite its natural origin, durability, recyclability and biodegradability.
“The Green Book establishes wool’s environmental credentials in one comprehensive source,” said lead author Dr Paul Swan.
“Wool’s story should not be dictated by others, nor without respect for natural or terrestrial systems which are fundamentally different to linear industrial processes.”
The Green Book examines five main areas. These include wool’s biogenic, biodegradable, recyclable and energy-efficient properties, as well as the reasons the IWTO believes conventional LCA tools overstate the fibre’s carbon footprint.
It also examines the relationship between wool production, photosynthesis, soil systems and carbon storage, alongside the potential for responsible grazing practices to support soil health, biodiversity and carbon balance.
The fifth area covers supply chain transparency and the tools available to trace wool from farm through to the finished product.
The project was developed with lead funding from Italian fashion and textile trade association Confindustria Moda. Cape Wools SA, WoolWorks New Zealand and Australian Wool Innovation also provided investment.
Francesco Botto, chairman of Italian wool manufacturer Reda and a representative of Confindustria Moda’s Wool Section, described the publication as an opportunity to broaden discussion of wool beyond production emissions.
“The Green Book is a game changer,” he said. “It presents an incredible opportunity to discuss wool not only in terms of emissions, but also regarding its importance in carbon sinking.”
The IWTO said the Green Book will operate as a living resource that can be updated as further evidence becomes available. Its proposed biogenic carbon accounting methodology will also be made freely available as part of the organisation’s commitment to open access.
The industry body is encouraging wool producers to participate in its global biogenic LCA programme, which is developing an evidence base for accounting for biogenic carbon under the ISO 14067:2018 carbon-footprint standard.
IWTO believes the resulting model can provide a more appropriate way of assessing natural fibres by recognising the movement of carbon through biological systems rather than treating wool production in the same way as fossil-based manufacturing.
The organisation is also inviting brands, retailers and other supply chain businesses to use the Green Book when making sourcing decisions and communicating wool’s sustainability attributes.
The IWTO has represented the international wool trade since 1930 and acts as a standards, research and knowledge-sharing body for the global industry.
