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BEIJING – Global apparel brands with supply chains that link to Xinjiang are “no longer in compliance with basic ethical principles.” In an exclusive interview with Apparel Insider, one of the world’s leading experts on China’s policies in Xinjiang, Dr Adrian Zenz, told us brands with ties to Xinjiang are “complicit in the ongoing economic success of a system that perpetrates major crimes against humanity.”

Dr Zenz was talking in the wake of the leaking of a new document which offers the most revealing insight to date into how China held hundreds of thousands of Muslims held in a network of internment camps with links to forced labour. The textile and cotton industries are widely acknowledged to be one of the main beneficiaries of this labour.

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