Brands seriously lag on circularity commitments

COPENHAGEN – Global apparel brands are seriously lagging in their commitments to circularity claims a new status update from Global Fashion Agenda. Signatories to the Circular Fashion System commitment have reached just 45 (21 per cent) of the 213 targets set, with just 12 months left to achieve the 2020 targets. The update also shows that of 90 signatories, 10 did not submit the survey within the submission deadline while 15 companies did not meet the minimum requirements for year two of the commitment. Launched in 2017, the 2020 Commitment urges brands and retailers to take action on circularity to accelerate the industry’s transition to a circular fashion system. It is signed by 90 fashion companies.

The report notes that brands must “urgently accelerate their efforts and seek further collaboration if they are to achieve their remaining targets by June 2020.” Signatories set targets across four action points, these being implementing design strategies for cyclability (87 targets set, 24 reached); increasing the volume of used garments and/or footwear collected (52 targets set, 12 reached); increasing the volume of used garments and/or footwear resold (27 targets set, 4 reached); and increasing the share of garments and/or footwear made from recycled post-consumer textile fibres (47 targets set, 5 reached).

The Year Two Status Report includes brand case studies by ASOS, Eksempel, Filippa K, Guess, H&M, Loomstate, Mud Jeans and Nudie Jeans, as well as statements by representatives of Bestseller, Dhana Inc., Ganni, KappAhl, Mara Hoffman, Nike, Norrøna Sport, Suitsupply and VF EMEA.

Eva Kruse, CEO & president, Global Fashion Agenda, said: “It’s promising to see that the 2020 Commitment has triggered many brands to take action on circularity. However, we need to move faster; if we don’t work together to establish a strong ecosystem of collaboration, we will not achieve all of the 2020 Commitment targets and the impact of the fashion industry on the planet will continue to grow.”

Kudos to GFA for updating on this issue and taking a hard line on brands. The Danish body attempted to put a positive spin on this update but the figures really do speak for themselves. They also make one wonder whether brands signed up to this high-profile initiative primarily for PR reasons without giving enough serious thought to the level of commitment involved.