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BERLIN – Textile certification schemes which claim to support “more sustainable cotton” continue to have links with Xinjiang in China, despite well-documented human rights risks, new research claims. A damning white paper claims Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) and its certification body Control Union Certifications, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), and Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) continue to certify suppliers in the region or allow Xinjiang suppliers or companies with operations in Xinjiang to process certified products. The paper claims fashion brands cannot rely on such schemes and must conduct their own due diligence to ensure their supply chains remain free from human rights transgressions.

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